Denali National Park: Self-reflection #2 – New perspectives

Posted on August 19, 2010 by Miho

I still remember clearly when I first learned about national parks of the United States. I was 17. My parents showed us a BBC TV show on “Winter in the Yellowstone National Park.” In the show, I saw the buffalos covered with snow and icicles, and moving in the park as some died along the way. I was fascinated with the idea of honoring the wildlife the way they are.

But…. what about honoring the indigenous people in our parks?

I have a new perspective to ask this question after spending a month exclusively with native nations: the Lower Elwha Klallam tribe in Washington and Gwich’in nation in Alaska. With Gwich’in women, I breathed the air of the tundra, drank the Glacier River water, ate the caribou meat, slept under the midnight sun and became a part of many conversations. I asked questions. Sometimes women answered the questions but many times, I was told to just observe and listen. In this process, I started to understand a life of Gwich’in with all of my senses. When I left, I didn’t know what changes have happened to me, not until I walked into the other world.

Denali National Park was the first place I visited after spending a time with Gwich’in people. When I walked into the Denali’s visitor center, I immediately noticed some changes in me. I first looked for Native American visitors as if I were expecting to see a familiar face of my friend. I looked for rangers who are Native Americans. No luck. But I saw a display of Athabaskan native people. I was immediately drawn to the exhibit as if I were a magnet to it. I read the information. I listened to the audio stories. When I saw how Athabaskans were honored and included both in the present and the past of the park, I felt comforted. I knew it can be better but at least, Athabaskan people were there to represent a today’s face of Denali National Park. I walked away feeling somewhat welcomed to the park. At that moment, I realized that I started seeing the world through a Native Americans’ lens. I had some awareness of the land issue between the parks and natives in the past. But now I know that I wasn’t even close to examine the issue by wearing a lens of a Native American woman.

The Denali’s visitor center is an example of how the National Park Service started to recognize today’s native tribes of America. Things are getting better for some nations in the parks. For example, in 2011, a removal of two dams on the Elwha River in Olympic National Park will begin. The largest dam removal in US history will not only free the river but also gives an opportunity for the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe to renew their culture. For the first time in 100 years, Jamie and her tribe will regain access to their sacred sites and salmon. It will help the tribe to practice their way of life and the cultural traditions. It is a great news. But had we known the dams would destroy Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, and if we had a wisdom to honor their way of life, we could have made a choice to not to build dams at the first place. So, my question is, “How can we respect Native Americans’ way of life in our parks today?”

Protecting the calving ground of the Porcupine Caribou Herd in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge from oil development seems to be a testimony for our nation to prove that we truly celebrate diversity and embrace our native people’s birthright. With this new perspective, it is not just about protecting the land and the caribou. It is about protecting indigenous people: my mothers, fathers, brothers and sisters who have made an agreement with the caribou to be their protectors in the creation story. As Sarah James said, if we allow the development in the area, we will repeat the same history the way of the buffalos and the tribes had to face in the West. We as Americans can not repeat the massacre of buffalo, which led to a genocide of the buffalo nations.

What is going on with the buffalo nations today? Without the buffalos, where did they go and how do they live? Are we at a place to honor their connection to the buffalo and the land now we call national parks? I don’t know.

But I believe that there has to be Native American women who have been protecting the last remaining wild buffalos and restoring their connection to the land and animals. If not many, there has to be at least one.

Where can I find her?

Posted in Denali National Park | Leave a comment

Denali National Park: Self-reflection #1 – New conversations

Posted on August 16, 2010 by Miho

I spent two weeks off from my project and created a time and space in the quiet backcountry of Denali and Grand Teton National Park to reflect my experiences with Gwich’in nation. In this process, I had many new conversations with people from different backgrounds and gained new perspectives. As a result, new ideas and a direction of the project have been born.

When I think about “new conversations,” the one particularly stands out the most because it made me think, “How do I talk to people who are up for drilling oil in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge?”

I am used to speaking to my friends and fans who support my project. It automatically guarantees that I don’t have to defend my perspectives. So, when I had a conversation with a person who believes in drilling into Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, I was challenged but in a very good and powerful way. The conversation was somewhat intimidating because at the beginning he was very angry and told me that he would not support my project. He made a really good point that I couldn’t have made it to Arctic Village and met Gwich’in nation to do my project if there weren’t oil. That is SO TRUE! I, as a human being, can not live alone separating myself from our society. Because our society is heavily dependent on oil for our transportation, energy and pretty much everything surrounds us (i.e. plastic – it is made of oil), I can not deny my dependence on oil. It is unrealistic for me to say, “No oil at all! So, don’t drill anywhere!” But I can consume less if I make conscious choices in my everyday life and take actions to change our energy policies and support socially and environmentally responsible companies. For example, I have been flying between major cities only with Alaska/Horizon Airlines for my project since they have the strongest environmental programs in the industry. The last flight I took was from Seattle to Idaho Falls and I was on a 76-seat Q400 aircraft, which is 30-40% more fuel-efficient than a comparable jet. The conversation made me more eager to be a part of our social movement towards reducing our dependence on oil by creating more clean renewable energy and more fuel efficient technology. We owe the future generation to do this so that they also have an access to the oil like I do now.

But the true challenge was not talking about our energy policy. It was more about how to communicate Gwich’in people’s perspective on this issue clearly so that he could gain a new perspective on this issue. I decided to just listen to what he had to say. As I listened to him, I remembered the Gwich’in’s elders words: “Do it in a good way and no compromise.” I also paid attention to what we have in common. He talked and I talked. He started to understand that our conversation was not about the oil, not about the caribou and not about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. REALLY, NOT AT ALL! It was about seeing the issue by wearing a different cultural lens and how wearing a lens of Gwich’in nation all the sudden turns the issue into human rights issue. I also found out that he and I share a value in Buddhism and we practice meditation. That was when I was able to explain the issue from the Buddhist perspective – how we all practice to live our lives by cultivating lovingkindness and compassion to all living and non-living things. If we let oil companies drill into 1002 area as the politicians call, the calving ground of the Porcupine Caribou Herd as the environmentalists call, or “the sacred place where life begins” as the Gwich’in nation call in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, it will show how humanity fails to practice lovingkindness and being compassionate toward everything.

He was not mad at me anymore at the end. I admired him for his ability to just listen to me when I wanted to be heard. He understood where I was coming from. Later, he asked me, “What do you want me to do?” I didn’t give him all the answers. I wanted him to contemplate on his own.

This new conversation inspired me to not afraid of speaking to people who are not like me. It might be too ambitious to say that I want people who want to drill in the Arctic Wildlife Refuge to be an ally for Gwich’in people, but at least, I feel that it is my responsibility to communicate where Gwich’in people stand as a woman who learned their way. I need to have more practice. And maybe it is good for you, too. So, next time, if you meet someone who says one of the Sarah Palin’s famous lines, “Drill baby drill!,” listen to them and talk to them. But remember, “Do it in a good way and no compromise.” – I think it means to communicate politely, kindly and respectfully without compromising your right to speak up for yourself. It might be intimidating if the person is angry. It might be very uncomfortable. But Gwich’in people have been doing this since 1987. They have been educating many people including those who are against them. They gave me a strength and wisdom to speak up. I thought, “If they can do it, I can too.” – and if I can do it, you can too.


Posted in Denali National Park | Leave a comment

Arctic Wildlife Refuge: Interview with Gwich’in Girls and Women

Posted on July 26, 2010 by Miho

Photo by Camila Roy / Spectral Q

“Protect” – more than 200 people gathered to spell this word, a porcupine caribou antler and the threatened Yukon River Salmon with their bodies on the bank of the Porcupine River during the Gwich’in gathering. The aerial art sends a message of a permanent protection of Arctic Wildlife Refuge to the world.

I have captured a total of 26 Gwich’in women and girls speaking up for their rights to protect the Arctic Wildlife Refuge to create a video that shows unified voice of them. They all spoke about their connection to the land and the caribou, subsistent life style and Arctic Wildlife Refuge as their lifeline. But most of all, they talked about the basic human right. One woman said, “We have the basic human right to choose our way of life on this land so that we can live the way we have lived for thousands of thousands of years. It’s our spirituality, it’s our religion, it’s how we put our food on table, and it’s our whole world view.”Another woman said, “Oil will bring you money but money will run out someday. We cannot eat money. We cannot eat oil. But the land will provide us food and everything we have forever as long as we take care of it.”

These voices are so strong. Many women said, “”How are we as a humanity continue to survive if we continue to destroy life and taking it away from our children and their children?” “We all need clean air, clean water and clean land to survive. We are not speaking up for only Gwich’in people. We are speaking up for everyone in this world.” Many of them know that they can’t protect the coastal plain of Arctic National Wildlife Refuge by themselves. So here is the invitation from them. “Please come see us and we will show you how we live. We will take you to our land, serve you our food and show our ceremony. Then you will know how we are deeply and spiritually connected to the caribou and the land.”

Not many people have a privilege to spend a time with the Gwich’in people like I do. So, I listen, I take notes, I record videos and I take photos so that you can see them, hear them and feel them. So, you will have a new lens to see this issue from the Gwich’in people’s perspective. You will have a tool to stand by them. You may be inspired to be on this journey with them. So, I will go again today – to listen to one girl, one woman and one voice at a time.

Posted in Arctic Wildlife Refuge | 1 Comment

Arctic Wildlife Refuge: Fort Yukon

Posted on July 18, 2010 by Miho

2010 Gwich’in gathering has began in Fort Yukon, Alaska today. The theme is “Unity Through Our Cultural/Traditional Values For Our Sovereign Success.”

Gwich’in people have been gathering as a nation for a long time. Once this tradition discontinued after they were colonized into villages in the US and Canada. In 1988, the Gwich’in elders called to hold a gathering to discuss the threat of oil and gas development. The tradition was brought back first time in 100 years to unite the whole nation. The words from the elders were: “Do it in a good way and no compromise. Stay united.”

Since then, they have been gathering every other year. They discuss health issues and environmental issues including how they can achieve to protect the Arctic Wildlife Refuge permanently.

I was invited to join the gathering. I am here this week to interview more Gwich’in women from youth to elders who are speaking up for their rights to protect the Arctic Wildlife Refuge. My goal is to produce a short video that reflects all these voices. I have already met so many Gwich’in women and girls who want to collaborate with me.

I am looking forward to another week of great conversations.

Posted in Arctic Wildlife Refuge | Leave a comment

Arctic Wildlife Refuge: Interview with Sarah James

Posted on July 16, 2010 by Miho

I have never spent this much time to listen to stories from Native Americans. Had I ever tried to seek out this opportunity? No, not really, until I met Jamie last month in Olympic National Park.

This last eight days have been one of the most intense yet eye-opening experiences for me to learn about indigenous people’s rights, history and current issues around Gwich’in nation.

“A long time ago, our creator put Gwich’in people and the caribou on this land. The caribou has provided us everything we need to survive. We have taken a responsibility to protect the land and the caribou. It is our birthright to protect this land,” said Sarah.

The coastal plain of Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in Alaska has been under the debate of drill or not to drill for the oil development since 1987. This area has been known as the calving and nursing ground for the Porcupine Caribou Herd, which is the Gwich’in nation’s life line. Sarah said, “In Gwich’in, we call the place ‘The Sacred Place Where Life Begins.’ No Gwich’in goes there even during the starvation time. Drilling into the area means that drilling into our heart and our existence. This is why it’s a human rights issue. It is an environmental issue and tribal rights issue. It is a national issue since the public owns this land. It is a women’s issue since we all can give birth. All women can speak up to protect any birthplace.”

To me, for a long time, I was only seeing it as an environmental issue. I donate money to environmental organizations and they have taught me how this oil development would change the fragile arctic ecosystem forever and the real problem is our dependance on oil. It takes 10 years to develop the area to potentially supply 6 month of oil in the US. But now I am here and living with Gwich’in people and eating caribou, I clearly see this issue from a perspective of indigenous people’s rights, human rights and tribal rights.

The Gwich’in Steering Committee was established in 1988 to advocate a permanent protection of the coastal plain of Arctic Wildlife Refuge with subsistent prevision. They have been educating the public about this issue.

“We have made many friends who are standing side by side with us. We need more friends and supporters who understand our way of life and our relationship with the caribou and stand by us. If we let oil companies drill into the area, we will repeat the same history the way of the buffalos and the tribes had to face in the West,” said Sarah.

I said, “Never again.”

Posted in Arctic Wildlife Refuge | Leave a comment

Arctic Wildlife Refuge: July 5th – John Fredson Day in Arctic Village

Posted on July 8, 2010 by Miho

Today is a very special day. July 5th is more important for Arctic Village Gwich’in than July 4th. People in Venetie and Arctic Village call July 5th “John Fredson Day” and celebrate this day by making a big feast and playing together. John Fredson, a Gwich’in man knew that white people would soon want what Gwich’in valued the most: the land and animals. To protect Venetie and Arctic Village Gwich’in, he earned higher education and learned white people’s way. In 1938, he helped his people in Venetie and Arctic Village to gain 1.8 million acres of land under the Indian Reorganization Act.

“My brother, Albert, is cooking caribou heads at his house. It is a traditional meal we prepare for special occasions when available. Do you want to go there and see it?” said Sarah. “Of course!” I was excited about this opportunity because Gwich’in people are called “Caribou people” – their life is dependent on caribou. Primary habitat of the Porcupine Caribou Herd overlaps with the traditional homeland of the Gwich’in. I spent many hours at Sarah’s brother’s house and helped them prepare the heads. My job was to rotate the heads around the fire so that they are roasted evenly. Bertha, Albert’s partner said, “Miho, how much are you making per hour?” Everyone was laughing. I said, “A caribou head per hour!” I tried my first caribou in my life. They tasted delicious, especially the tongue. “Some people watch us and have a hard time to conceive our way. But this is who we are and what we do. We are caribou people. We cannot live without the animal. We go hunt them and use every part of the animal. We don’t waste anything – we respect the animals. We respect the land,” said Bertha. She taught me how each part of caribou is being used. Again, I was reminded how important it is to be open to other people’s way of life. Once I am in their element, I obey their customs.

Later, Bertha asked, “Miho, did you try the brain?” I said, “Not yet.” She said, “Do you want to try it?” I said, “Of course!” – it tasted like crab brain, which I was accustomed to eat in Japan, minus the flavor of the sea.

Bertha also talked about her friend who has been through chemotherapy. After chemo, She only craved for certain kind of Gwich’in delicate food such as intestine of caribou cooked on fire. This is a delicacy that people eat first when they kill caribou in the field. That was the only food she could eat. After that, she started eating again. “Caribou is our comfort food. When we get sick, this teaches us to go back to our own food and not white food in the hospital.”

It makes a total sense.

Posted in Arctic Wildlife Refuge | Leave a comment

Fairbanks to Arctic Village

Posted on July 8, 2010 by Miho

Arctic Village – you can’t really go further north than this place to find any human settlement except Inuit in the United States.

I arrived at the small airport of Wright Air Service in Fairbanks. I met Mr. Bursiel, the owner of this company and thanked him for his generous support for my project. Upon check in, we all had to weigh everything that went into the plane. “Don’t be shy,” said a lady at check-in. Everyone was laughing. Bob, the pilot, asked me, “would you like to sit in the front with me?” I couldn’t believe it. It was way cool to sit in the cockpit in the small bush plane. For the entire flight, I asked him so many questions about his job and everything I saw in the cockpit. I explained about my reason for this trip to him. “You know, 20, 30 years ago, if we heard a voice of a woman pilot on the radio, some guys booed her. I am sure that I didn’t think much of it. But it wasn’t right. If you are a good pilot, you are good. If you are a bad pilot, you are bad. Being a man doesn’t mean that you are better at flying a plane. Because of these women pilot who endured that kind of harassment and became successful in the career, now we don’t hear any kind of comments against women pilots. And because of these women, men changed. So, it’s important to support women empowerment project like what you are doing. I will check your website. Good luck!” My work is to empower women through outdoor role models but it doesn’t mean that men are out of my league for empowerment. Without them, I cannot succeed. Without them, we cannot create this social change. Since late June, many men have been helping me by providing me sponsorships, free places to stay, a ride or flying me. Many asked my business cards and wished me good luck. Every time I meet a man like Bob, it gives me a hope – a hope for a good future for girls and women, especially women of color.

The plane made an arc and landed in Arctic Village. I saw Sarah James on her ATV. I was so happy to see her!  After good hugs, she took me to her sister’s house right across from her home. “My sister is gone so you can stay here. Today is the 4th of July so let’s go join the villagers,” said Sarah. I met many people including Steven, the second chief of the village. I participated in games that they were playing. “Miho, come play dizzy stick!” I had no idea what that meant. I was given a stick and lined up with many other adults. With the call of the judge, we all had to put our forehead on the tip of the stick and rotate around it 20 times then run to the finish line. I was on the ground by the time I rotated 12 times. I was disqualified. Everyone was laughing. Well, it was a good start here in Arctic Village.

Happy 4th of July!

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Olympic National Park: Interview with Jamie Valadez

Posted on July 4, 2010 by Miho

Jamie Valadez, a Lower Elwha Klallam cultural teacher and activist welcomed me into her arms last Sunday. For a week, Jamie shared her life with me. She introduced me to many of her community members. Those include Adeline and Elaine, Klallam elders who have been Jamie’s role models, and younger women who were inspired to follow Jamie’s footsteps to keep Klallam language and culture alive in their community and in the park.

One night Jamie went over a book that described a history of Lower Klallam tribe with me. In her words, I saw much grief and sorrow for her people who have been taken their land, voice, and a way of living. But I didn’t pick up anger or hatred towards white people in her tones. “Education is important. Educating all youth about our history and language is a key to revitalize our culture,” said Jamie. “I open my Klallam language class at Port Angeles High School for all students, not just for Klallam youth. Black, brown and white students are all welcomed. We have institutional racism to overcome and it is a barrier for many students. The more they took Klallam language classes and got involved with Native American Club, the more comfortable they felt. It helped non-Klallam students to understand our culture, breakdown stereotypes, raise awareness. Our campus is becoming more accepting the diversity.”

This is the solution. It is a very simple and basic massage: we all need to work together and understand each other beyond our race and beyond what already have happened. Now is important. Our future is important. How can I help our world to break down the barriers that divide us?

I want to continue to educate myself about tribal cultures and their way of living. I will remind myself to be open, and that my way is just my way and not the right way. We all have a potential to be activists in ourselves if we all take these small steps together.

So, I want to ask – would you join in this journey with me?

Posted in Olympic National Park | Leave a comment

Olympic National Park: In the Silver Moon on the full moon night

Posted on June 26, 2010 by Miho

Silver Moon is a name of my new home – a rustic and cute little cabin that Olympic Park Institute generously provided me. When I arrived at Olympic Park Institute yesterday, everyone welcomed me and provided me everything I need to live for a week in the park. I felt immediately safe and loved. I am very grateful to be a part of this community.

I spent a day and half to rest, explore and get ready for the project. I enjoyed a walk in the rain forest. The forest reminds me so much of my home, Japan. The Marymere Falls were stunning. I was thrilled to paddle out into the emerald green water on Lake Crescent in the canoe. But I spent most of my time in the Silver Moon. I loved this cabin immediately – a perfect location, size and space for me to prepare myself for the project.

Tomorrow I will meet Jamie Valadez, a Lower Elwha Klallam tribe activist who inspires high school students to connect with nature and culture. I can not hide how excited I am now- in the Silver Moon on the full moon night.

Posted in Olympic National Park | Leave a comment

Taking off

Posted on June 24, 2010 by Miho

Every adventure is exciting but this one is exceptional. They are waiting – those remarkable women scientists and activists in the national parks – for their stories of protecting our parks to be told. I am simply excited about this opportunity to meet these women and to share their stories with the world. I packed everything I need for next six months in a backpack and in a suitcase, and left my home last night. As the plane was taking off, I kept my face so close to the window to catch a last glimpse of the San Francisco Bay area. I may not see my home for 6 months. As the plane was swallowed into the fog and the cities disappeared, I took a deep breath and sat back, thinking, “So, here I go again! I am taking off to a new adventure and a new chapter of this project! Cheers, everyone!”

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment